Palaces, Pots and Parks: Archaeology and the National Trust

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Nathalie Cohen, National Trust, October 2013

Nathalie works part-time with both the Thames Discovery Programme and the National Trust (NT), and the rest of the time is Southwark Cathedral archaeologist.  This talk would be about her work with the NT.  There are 73,000 recorded archaeological sites across NT properties and part of Nathalie’s role is to bring their archaeology more to the fore.  The archaeologists are part of NT’s Regional Consultancy Groups: Nathalie is with Kent and East Sussex and has been in post two years.

At Rodwell, outside Lewes, East Sussex, is Monks House, associated with Virginia Woolf.  Work on expanding the car park into an adjacent field also owned by the NT led to a lot of archaeology being found in the field, including a robbed-out building with a series of pits and postholes - a more intensive occupation than anticipated, perhaps medieval, and there was some limited Roman and Iron Age activity.

In the 1920s human (Neolithic) remains were found at Coldrum megalithic chambered tomb in the Medway Valley, so a new interpretation board includes this, plus mention of other sites in the Valley such as Kits Coty.  Kent Archaeological Society are digitising some early slides which show the 1920s excavation in progress plus finds such as bones which  may be in Maidstone Museum – this will be investigated. The White Cliffs of Dover: after a huge and successful fundraising campaign to acquire a section of the cliffs the NT now owns quite a long stretch of the cliffs, including the Fan Hole Battery site, which the NT wants to make safer for the public to visit and experience as it would have been during the War.  Sound mirrors there are inaccessible at present.  There is a lot of 1940s and later graffiti in the tunnels: how to interpret it? 

Winchelsea: a small town, but with active archaeological societies.  Someone digging in an allotment on NT property found a silver jetton dating to 1250-60, which slightly pre-dates the building of New Winchelsea around 1280. There are medieval cellars in Winchelsea, including the Blackfriars Bar/Cellar, one of the largest.

  Cleared out in the late 1980s it was found to be full of post-medieval pottery, which Winchelsea Archaeological Society are looking at.  It was decided to record some graffiti recently noticed on the walls, helped by Matt Champion who had carried out a graffiti survey in Norfolk.  They found about 12 medieval ships, perhaps mid-14th century, sailing across a wall, plus some mysterious symbols.  There are a lot of medieval ships images in churches, but not usually this size, this many and which have been inscribed into wet plaster.  In the 14th century there was a sea battle which would have been in sight of New Winchelsea - is this a depiction of the battle?  It is hoped to publish something on the images.

In Rookery Field at Winchelsea there is a barn with medieval masonry foundations;  they are trying to understand more about the site.  The medieval town wall still runs round part of the town.

Bodiam Castle: working with the University of Southampton and North Western University, they are looking at the Castle, particularly the interior, of which nothing much remains, trying to understand the construction sequence.  The fields around the Castle have been surveyed.  They found the masons’ camp for the construction of the Castle, plus evidence for Roman activity - there was a Classis Britannica Fort there. 

Knole:  This will be the number one priority for the next five years.  Knole was a palace of the Archbishop of Canterbury, acquired for this purpose in the late 15th century; previously it was probably a Manor House.  Parts of the old structure are still buried inside.  It passed to the Crown (Henry VIII) but Elizabeth I sold it to her cousin Thomas Sackville and the family are still in residence.  In the 17th century more rebuilding was carried out, so it is largely a 17th century house with a medieval core.  It houses a major collection of artwork and furniture, the latter coming from Hampton Court and Whitehall Palace.  It is perhaps a “Calendar” house, e.g. with seven courtyards, 365 rooms, 52 staircases.  They are currently in Phase One: a £3m project, with a huge amount of work to do.  So some of the building is always covered in scaffolding.  As the scaffolding moves round the house, they take off another part of the roof, then put it back.  MoLA has found 20 different constructions of roof, including part of a medieval roof which was perhaps once open above the kitchens inside.

   Render put on in the late 1890s meant the building could not breathe.  And there is nothing between the render and the panelling.  There was graffiti, over two hundred examples, by the people who did the rendering: more may be found as work progresses.  As roof voids have been cleaned out material found included birds’ nests, salacious books and smoking paraphernalia.  On the East front, a late medieval (early 16th century) window frame has given an indication of a previously unknown decorative scheme; there had been 7-8 phases of façade on the East front alone.  A Long Gallery has a circa early 17th century plaster ceiling.  For Phase Two they have been awarded £7.75m from the Heritage Lottery Fund.  The whole project will cost around £80m.  The building will be made weatherproof, and they will then conserve the contents, create an Education Centre, re-furbish the café and kitchens, install new spaces for visitors and the Great Barn will become a conservation studio.  There was no accurate floorplan for the building.  Oxford Archaeology did a survey of the Great Barn and hayloft area and MoLA a survey of the publicly visited rooms, with elevations.  They will take up floorboards and panelling for the first time for hundreds of years and there might be exciting material underneath, such as perhaps old visitors’ tickets going back to Victorian times (as have been found at other NT properties).  It is hoped to do more guided tours behind the scenes – Prince Charles has been amongst many visitors to the works.  Looking at Knole in its context Stuart Ainsworth (of Time Team) will do some survey work in the park. There will be more community archaeology, events and children’s activities – an Archaeology Day this year was well attended so it is hoped to make it an annual event.  A big oral history project will be Knole in the War (WWI), when Knole became a barracks. There are very few archaeological artefacts at Knole - any new material may form the basis for a collection.  The NT has no archive for artefacts found on its properties, but they are logged; the ideal would be a repository such as LAARC.  As for getting to Knole, this year there was a vintage (Routemaster) bus to take visitors to Knole from the station.  The house is closed over winter 2013, and won’t re-open until March 2014, when perhaps the bus will run again.

Yvonne Masson